Watercolor Ceramic Nail Art Tutorial

I feel SO privileged to have such a variety of creative clients. My client, Cori, always comes in with unique ideas and concepts and it’s always so fun to jam out and collaborate while we find the creative path. This design was loosely inspired by the Japanese concept of Wabi Sabi, the art of being perfectly imperfect.

As a starting point, I knew that we wanted to play with a combo muted soft colorful tones counterbalanced with a glaze-like texture. My mind immediately went to the Kokoist Bread Pudding collection I purchased over the holiday season, a collection of sheer (but not clear) milky contemporary colorful tones- when paired with two of my longstanding favorites (E-78 Nudist Beach and E-91 White Gradation) are PERFECT for a perfectly imperfect nuanced watercolor design.

Image courtesy of Show Me Professional & Nail Formula Canada

BUT ALSO, as I was scrolling the ‘gram (as one does) I cam across this glorious confection from Korea by way of Canada distributor Nail Formula: the Show Me Solitude Series Episode One gel. Now, ya’ll KNOW I love a weird speciality gel, but the weird speciality gels that look like stone, ceramic or terrazzo texture. those ones are extra special. When I saw this, I gasped, grabbed my credit card and ordered immediately, $15 shipping and all. That's how you know it’s true love, when you are willing to pay shipping.

Step 1: Apply a single layer of Kokoist Color Gel in E-78 Nudist Beach, this is going to help create a subtly uniformity for the backdrop of the design. Cure.

For the watercolor design. we’ll be working in wet layers, meaning that you aren’t going to cure until all colors are placed and blended.

Step 2: Apply swishes of Kokoist Color Gel in E-91 White Gradation on all nails. Do not cure.

Step 3: Apply swishes of Kokoist Color Gel in E-245S Carrot Bread Pudding, wiping off your brush between swipes and gently blending the edges of the colors. Do not cure.

Step 4: Apply swishes of Kokoist Color Gel in E-246S Fig Bread Pudding, wiping off your brush between swipes and gently blending the edges of the colors. Do not cure.

Step 5: Apply swishes of Kokoist Color Gel in E-243S Pistachio Bread Pudding, being careful not to over-blend this shade (because if you do it’ll just turn brown).

Step 6: Let the colors sit and mingle for a few seconds and then cure

Step 7: Apply a thin layer of Show Me Solitude Series Episode 1 (what a name, right?) being careful to check for any jagged edges and gently pushing the particles around to achieve your desired look. Cure.

Step 8: Using a textured gold frame charm (if I’m honest, I’m not sure where I got mine from as I tend to pick up charms from everywhere, but safe assumption either Ali Express or Clou), apply Ageha Charm On No-Wipe Gel and place on the nail. Be sure to check for balance and try to angle the charm to lay as flush as possible to the nail. Flash cure to hold in place.

Step 9: Apply a small dollop of the charm gel to the inside of the charm and gently place some shell pieces and a smaller gold seed style charm. Cure.

Step 10: Apply a layer of Kokoist Art Clear on top of all nails to help create a smooth surface and seal in your charms. Cure. Be sure to feel all the nails and gently file off any jagged pieces/

Step 11: Apply your favorite top coat, I’m using Kokoist Ultra Glossy Non-Wipe Top Coat Gel, which is one of my favorites because it’s a little on the thicker side, so it really helps finish an encapsulated look.

Step 12: Give yourself a high-five and pat on the back and stare at your gorgeous nails. (optional, but recommended).

Featured on Instyle.com

Okay, so last night I had a dream. Well, not so much a dream as much as a panic inducing nightmare. I dreamed that I given an embarrassing video interview and that the internet was making fun of me. Even though I’ve never actually been interviewed on camera, I felt like I should do a google news search of my name and instagram username, just to be safe. Turns out, my search yielded something worth celebration- InStyle.com featured two of my manicures in their Valentine’s Day nail art roundup: 11 Valentine's Day Nail Designs, From Candy Hearts to Abstract Masterpieces.

This abstract Atari inspired art design has been getting some serious love this season, and I’m not surprised. It was one of my favorite manicures from last February and it was featured on Allure.com as well.

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Credit where credit is due, this design was inspired by Ali J, an amazing San Diego based nail artist. We created this look using Luminary Nail Systems Multi-Flex gel in Hope and the colorful swishes are Kokoist Color Gel in Japanese Magenta and Coral Pink Petals.

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Cuticle Confidential: Home Maintenance

After the third round of quarantine in California, I’ve come to the realization that we are just not talking to clients enough about cuticle care and maintenance. Here are some basic habits to get into to get the most out of your mani or if you’re not into getting your nails done, this will help your nails look nice and help prevent snags and hang nails. Let’s start with the basics.

Did you know that your cuticle is ONLY the non-living tissue that attaches to your nail plate? The longer it’s left unmanaged, the more dead tissue and protein can attach to the nail plate and if you let it go too long, you may find that living tissue can start to overlap as well. When the living tissue starts to grow where it aught not be (on the nail) it can make cuticle clean up a much longer process and can make you more prone to bleeding. Your cuticles aren’t just there to be a nuisance, they are an outgrowth of the tissue that’s intense to protect your nail matrix (the big boss brain of the nail) from infection- when we don’t take care of our nails and the surrounding skin, the body will try to overcorrect.

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A post shared by Rachel Messick | Manicurist (@rachel.messick)

When we think of at-home cuticle care, we’re going to focus on three practices: softening and pushing the cuticles and committing to a cuticle oil regimen.

For most people, the most convenient way to soften cuticles is to take nice relaxing shower or bath and if you’ve got gel, polish or enhancements on your nails- this is the only way I recommend you soften your cuticles.

If you’re nails are bare you can soak them in warm soapy water for a few minutes as well and your cuticles are super stuck or overgrown, after soaking you can apply a bit of cuticle remover as well- be sure to grab something gentle (Orly Cutique is a great and easy to access option).

Once your skin is softened (and if you’re using cuticle remover, you’ll want to keep it on for this part) using an angled cuticle pusher or orange wood stick, gently push the excess tissue off of your nail plate. Be mindful of your pressure, we just want to remove the dead excess tissue and the tissue that is stuck to your nail. If you’ve used a cuticle softened, nows the time to rinse.

Gentle safety cuticle pusher available in my online shop.

I don’t recommend nipping your cuticles at home, an improper cut can lead to at best an awful hangnail, most likely callouses and thick skin from over-nipping and at worst a gnarly infection (especially if you’re not able to properly disinfect your tools). That being said, if you insist on nipping your own cuticles, you only want to nip the whitish dead tissue- if you bleed or it feels tender, you’ve got too far.

This is the MOST IMPORTANT step of the whole process and something you should be doing multiple times a day. Truly, you can’t do it too much or too often. Cuticle oil will help condition the nail plate and the living tissue around the nail. I advise clients to align their cuticle care regimen with their day and night skincare routine, but I also recommend keeping an easy to apply pen or roller of oil in your car cup-holder for quick red-light or stop sign maintenance.

Convenient cuticle oil pen for on-the-go conditioning.

Nuance Tortoise Shell Tutorial

In my studio, we go gaga for tortoise shell designs of all kinds. You want a punchy traditional amber tortoise? say no more. You want a blonde tortoise? I got you. The one type of tortoise that was missing from my arsenal was a melty, caramel swishy tortoise. The kind of tortoise that would adorn a vintage compact or music box.

VIntage Tortoise Shell Box for Inspiration

This technique utilizes wet layers, meaning we’re going to me smushing and swirling a a bit before the hand ever goes in to the lamp for a cure. The trick with wet layers, is that you want to give them a moment to settle in and disperse before you cure.

Let those wet layers swirl and twirl, don’t overwork them.

Products Used:

Kokoist Color Gel in E-223 Midnight Chocolate

Kokoist Color Gel in E-239S Giallo Yellow Glass

Vetro No. 19 Gel Pod in #261 Jewel Umber

Nail Labo Gold Foil

Vetro No. 19 Gel Pod in #260 Jewel Topaz

Kokoist Ultra Glossy Non Wipe Top Coat Gel

Kokoist Round Brush

Nail Thoughts x Kokoist Detailer 

New Feature on Allure.com

Two of my designs were featured in Allure.com’s 20 Cute and Easy Valentine’s Day Nail Art Ideas and I’m not going to lie, it’s pretty exciting. I get a little jolt of validation whenever my art gets featured in mani round-ups, especially when they are two designs that I personally love and especially especially when it’s in ALLURE.

The products I recommended in the article are options that are available in traditional polish, and I’ll tag the gel versions I used for these looks as well- in case you want to recreate on your clients.

For this look I used Kokoist Color Gel in White Graduation, Pregel Color Ex in Hibiscus, Kokoist Color Gel in Japanse Magenta, Kokoist Color Gel in Bluey White.

For this look I used Kokoist Color Gel in Rouge Red, Light Elegance Glitter Gel in Mariachi in Mexico and topped it with Ageha CosmeColor Gel in Cassis Syrup.

Jelly Clouds Nail Art Tutorial

Strawberry jelly skies for days- also, I cannot help but hear “Watermelon Sugar” by Harry Styles on repeat in my head when I look at these beauts. Yes, we’re going to be doing a hand-painted-no-hacks-no-shortcuts ombré, but before you stress out- it’s also got GLITTER. We all know that glitter covers a multitude of sins. Now, add some fluffy marshmallow clouds and we’re in BUSINESS.

Why is this ombré easier than others? Well, first off, pink and white baby boomer gel ombrés are crazy hard so, we, as a nail community need to stop judging our ombré skills on failed baby boomer attempts. Also, if you can easily do a gel polish baby boomer without shortcuts or hacks, l will pull a full-on Wayne’s World “we’re not worth” at your feet. This ombré is easier because we’re using colors that aren’t in competition with each other- we’re blending a creamy lipstick pink into a clear gradation gel and then topping that gel with a sheer pink glitter to bring it all together. I need you to promise me that you won’t overthink it. Work in layers and use a light touch, you got this.

First things first, here’s what you’ll need to complete this look. Ageha Gradation Gel Clear, T-Gel Color Gel in D085 Vintage Pink, Presto Color Gel (Bottle) #26, Presto Color Gel (pot) #4, Kokoist Ultra Glossy Non Wipe Top Coat , Kokoist Flat Brush, ManaNails x Nail Partner Art Brush and Nail Thoughts x Kokoist Smoosh Brush.

Heart On Your Sleeve, Red On Your Fingers

This post contains product that was gifted for promotional consideration. For more information, please see disclosure statement.

“Red, for valentines day, revol-uuuuu-tionary.” Listen ya’ll, we aren’t reinventing the wheel here; reds and pinks are forever favorites ANY season of the year. But today, TAH-DAY, we’re talking about my favorite hues for the month of love.

Whether you’re in it to win it with a class bold red or ready for something a little different with holographic pink glitter- I got you covered.

Sally Hansen Insta-Dry Nail Color in ASAP Apple ($4.50) - This one isn’t going to last the longest on your nails, but it’s a one and done- quick dry, gorgeous proper balanced red.

Dazzle Dry Nail Lacquer in Perfectly Plaid ($18) - This red is a little on the deeper side but you won’t find a longer lasting lacquer system on the market. It’s part of a system, so in order to get the long wear you’ll have to use the base and top coat as well but it’s definitely worth it.

Dazzle Dry Nail Lacquer in Soft Caress ($18) - A sweet lavender-toned cool pink, kind of reminds me of conversation hearts. This one is also part of the Dazzle Dry system as mentioned above.

Cirque Colors Nail Lacquer in Madder ($14) - Who doesn’t love a show-stopping HOLOGRAPHIC red. Yes, you heard right- it’s a red polish infused with super fine holographic flakes and trust me, when it catches the light it’s mesmerizing.

CND Vinylux Weekly Nail Polish in Pink Bikini ($14.50) - Literally, this is the perfect creamy pink. Bright, but not obnoxious and looks great on every skintone.

Essie Gel Couture in Rue De La Ruby ($11.50) - A perfect raspberry red for those that prefer a cooler tone to their reds. This collection as a whole is really impressive and I love the brush.

OPI Nail Lacquer in Big Apple Red ($9) - A true original favorite and probably the most perfect red to have ever have red. It’s fairly balanced, but leans a TOUCH to the warmer side of the color spectrum. This ones been in my bathroom vanity for at least a decade and you’ll have to pry it from my cold, dead hands if you want to take it from me.

Triple O Polish in Sirius A ($11) - Glitter polish is easily my favorite- it dries fast, is super duper forgiving and chips are hardly noticeable. This is the perfect pink sparkle to get you into the season.

Variegated Monstera Nail Art Tutorial

If you have found yourself on Plant TikTok or Plant Instagram lately, you’ve for SURE seen these rare and coveted mutant monstera plants. I too have spent a bit too much time on Etsy cruising for affordable clippings (FYI the cheapest I’ve found are upwards of $300)- so don’t worry, you’re not alone.

So, instead of spending an inordinate amount on clippings, let’s create some nail art. Because it’s 2021, we really can have it all. Also, I am fully obsessed with the From the Nail Cereal Glitter gel, it creates the perfect speckled ceramic vibe. I also opted for an easy to draw stylized monstera, that I promise, you’ll be able to recreate with a little bit of practice.

Products:

Luxio Color Gel in Cremelle

Luxio Color Gel in Incognito

Luxio Color Gel in Pure

Nail Thoughts x Kokoist Detailer

Presto Liner L Brush

From The Nail Cereal Glitter Gel

Kokoist Velvet Matte Non Wipe Top Coat Gel

The Privilege in the Pivot

I could have also titled this blog post, how I became one of those Real Housewives with a bikini line that I’ve been snickering at for years without even knowing it.

As I was dialing in my income vs. expenses from last year on my beloved spreadsheet (Microsoft Excel for LIFE, she’s a lady in the streets and a freak in the spreadsheets) I was shocked at the amount of money I spent trying to “pivot” my business in this pandemic. Now, an easy way to temper this shock would have been to run my numbers bi-weekly or monthly throughout the year, but what can I say, turns out a pandemic, nebulousness from our governing body, mild depression and existential dread can leave a girl, uh, *unfocused*, to say the least. In a world that lives firmly planted in glossy existence of content creation and social media- you won’t see too many established artists willingly and publicly admit to hardships or shortcomings. So, I’ll start, for 2020, I ended my year $600 in the hole.

After running my numbers, I realized two things: 1) I need to stop convincing myself that shopping is manifesting and 2) what the f*ck would I have done if my husband wasn’t the breadwinner of our family. The first revelation, ok duh, I’ve had a shopping problem my whole working life regardless of my income level- so I’m not going to dive too much into that. The second revelation, crystalized in my mind the 2015 article by Aimee Groth for Quartz titled “Entrepreneurs don’t have a special gene for risk- they come from families with money.” Here’s a snippet:

“But what often gets lost in these conversations Is that the most common shared trait among entrepreneurs is access to financial capital- family money, an inheritance, a pedigree and connections that allow for access to financial stability. While it seems that entrepreneurs tend to have an admirable penchant for risk, it’s usually that access to money which allows them to take risks.”

Living in a country (the United States) that seems to value “pulling yourself up by your bootstraps” it’s kind of important to acknowledge that it’s easier to learn lessons when you can sit down in your house, drink a Nespresso and casually reflect on the past years’ choices, versus, let’s say, your car being repossessed because your pivot didn’t pan out. When I tell you I spent THOUSANDS trying to pivot my business, I’m really not joking. Whether it was press-on nails and stock for E-commerce, my fear that clients wouldn’t come back and I’d have to start offering pedicures, prepping my session kit for set work that didn’t materialize, bringing in new lines to the studio to appeal to different clientele and the list goes on and on and on. That’s not even taking into account that I had the means to stay compliant with the various state and regional closures, and never had to live/work in fear of being fined or sacrificing my health.

My whole career has been defined by a certain level of privilege, and I think it’s important to acknowledge that. Sure, I worked my butt off and put every skill I’ve acquired from life and business experience to hit the ground running- but my privilege had be starting the race at an advantage. I was able to walk away from a corporate job with a fat savings account that allowed me to pick-and-choose elite nail education, buy the best products and focus in a way that I may not have been able to if we depended on my income. My life has not always been financially stable or particularly charmed, however, I’ve always had a soft place to land, should I need to.

As somebody with influence (albeit minor) within our industry, the importance of transparency has become paramount, especially during hard times. If you are investing in your future and your business, you can and should be vetting your educators and influencers with a critical eye before investing. The social media landscape is a glossy place and it’s easy to feel left behind. Hang in there, you got this.

Disco Darling Nail Tutorial

This post contains affiliate links, see my disclosure statement here.

I have a feeling that once the world gets right-side-up again we’re all going to be wearing ballgowns to brunch. If my ever-expanding personal collection of bejeweled turbans is any indicator, we’re due for another period of excess like the Roaring 20’s or the 80’s. I don’t know about you, but I’m ready for a little bit of devil-may-care to balance out all of the doom and gloom as of late.

This look was originally inspired by these amazing nails that Natalie Minerva created for Doja Cat in the Say So music video. The moment I saw them I was on a MISSION to find those sequins and recreate.

Products:

Light Elegance #4 Flat Bling Brush

Vetro No. 19 Gel Pod in #271 Silver Leaf

Rounded Rectangle KA-2 Silver Sequins

Rounded Square KA-1 Silver Sequins

Kokoist Art Clear

Orly Builder In A Bottle

Crystal Katana

Kokoist Ultra Glossy Non Wipe Top Coat Gel

Clou Hybrid Portable Light

Streamline Series: Swatch It Like It's Hot

This post contains affiliate links, see my disclosure statement here.

My studio was a swatch-free zone for a long time- I always hated the impersonal experience of going to the salon and pilfering through the basket of swatches or staring at a wall of polishes like the Sherwin Williams display at Home Depot. Without fail, I would just end up stressed out and say “uhhhh do you have Big Apple Red? From OPI?” and cross my fingers that the manicurist or front desk person knew what I was talking about. Suffice it to say, it was not the kind of high-end guided artistic collaboration I wanted to have with my clients.  

I always had an immense amount of pride in “knowing my collection” so if a client wanted a red, I wouldn’t show them EVERY red- I’d show them a few and then pare down from there or figure out what direction we wanted to go in without being overwhelmed by choice.

During the first round of closures out here in California, I had the epiphany- I didn’t have to choose one or the other, I can do both in a way that works for me and my artistic process.

Most importantly, it gave me something to do while my studio was closed. Swatching my gels gave me new perspective on my collection- it helped me realize what colors I was buying too often and what colors/finishes were lacking. I also found these amazing swatch palettes at my local nail supply (so if you’re in Orange County, you can grab them at Skylark- if you’re not, here’s an Amazon link) that were wayyyyy less cumbersome than traditional swatch sticks.  

With the new COVID safety guidelines (although, not all that different from how I already ran my studio) came out- streamlining my appointment timing became paramount. Then the epiphany happened:  I should put these online. By putting my swatches online, my clients won’t feel the swatch stress in my studio, and neither of us will have to pour over which pink is the “right pink” for twenty minutes of an hour appointment. Which, TBH, will still happen from time to time (you know who you are).

So it’s a new year, a new opportunity to streamline and work smarter. What steps are you taking in the new year to streamline your service experience?

Here are some links to products that have helped me streamline my swatch process:

36 Color Swatch Palette

Dymo LabelManager Label Maker

1/4 Inch Black on Clear Label Tape

Ball-Chain Connector Clasp

Ageha Non-Wipe Top Gel for Sample Tip

BioSeaweed No Tipe Top Coat

IBD Powerbond Gel Bonder

Mexican Tile Nail Art

Growing up in Southern California meant that i spent a lot of time in Mexico as a kid. Truly some of my best memories were browsing artisan shops with my mom or stopping at roadside eateries with my dad. To this day, nothing evokes a sense of nostalgia for me quite like that distinct smell of Mexican leather.

In case you were wondering, I was never not a ham.

Last year I went back for the first time in over a decade and the memories from that trip still live rent free on a loop in my brain. It’s an insanely beautiful country and I’m proud to be of Mexican descent. Truly, I cannot wait to go back. Until then, let’s do some nail art inspired by the pottery markets and create some Mexican tile nail art.

You can totally put your own spin and mix up the colors (and I hope you do, please tag me because I wanna see!) but for me, the traditional off-white, blue and rust palette just hits different.

Products Used:

Luxio Color Gel in Ivory

Kokoist Color Gel in E-16 Navy Marine

Presto Color Gel (jar) JC-22

ManaNails x Nail Partner Art Brush

Kokoist Dotting Tool Duo

Kokoist Ultra Glossy Non Wipe Top Coat Gel

Model Bag Must-Haves

This post contains affiliate links, see my disclosure statement here.

Model: Ashley Nedd, Photo: Caitlin Fisher, Manicure: Rachel Messick

I worked as a make-up artist for a really long time before I ever picked up a bottle of polish (professionally) and ventured into manicuring. The amount of times that I (as a makeup artist) was expected to paint and maintain nails was honestly astounding- especially considering I had zero experience and could barely paint my own nails (there is AMPLE and cringey photographic evidence of this in my personal Instagram). 

Now that I’m on the nail side of the looking glass, I get to hear all of the horror stories from my model friends about being ditched at the end of the day with press-ons and no clue how to remove them or a sculpted 2 inch acrylic extensions that have been pried off with dental floss and throbbing nails (these are both real life stories, FYI). I also see the relief from photographers when they know they aren’t going to have to photoshop a fill on 4-week old white gel manicures (seriously though, it’s ALWAYS white manis). Trust me, I’ve had my share of learning experiences on set as well- so I’m not here to bash anybody. I’m here to share my absolute must-haves so that your nails aren’t the distraction of the shoot. 

First Things First, the best advice I can give, from a manicurist perspective is to keep your nails clean and tidy and if you want to do gel, be sure it’s something that can be soaked off relatively easily and stick with simple nudes or clear. Dip and acrylic are both incredibly time consuming to remove and hard gel cannot be soaked off. Honestly, though, if you know you have busy seasons- just avoid anything other than nail polish or easily removable press-ons. 

I’ve separated the list into two categories: things to have on hand at home and things to add to your travel bag. 

 Things to have at home: 

 100% Pure Acetone: If it’s on your nails and removable, it’s coming off with Acetone. Buy a big bottle, store in a cool dry place. 

Nail Clippers: If you find yourself with long nails that you’d like to remove, you’ll want to clip the length down as much as possible before you try to soak them off. Trust me, it will make your life MUCH easier. 

 Removal Wraps/Foil: For wrapping and soaking off gel, acrylic, dip, press-ons, etc… 

Cotton: For product removal and saturating in acetone, removing nail polish, etc… 

High Quality Nail File 100/180: Use the more coarse side to file through product as much as possible before you soak off and the finer side to shape your natural nail.

Nail Clippers: These are optional on set, but essential at home. If you find yourself with long nails, you’ll want to cut the length down BEFORE you file and soak. It’ll save you a lot of time and energy. 

 Conair Warming Mitts (Optional): Warmth helps acetone work faster, so if you’re settling in for a soak off, pop your hands in the mitts and turn up the heat- it’ll cut time off significantly. For a more low-tech option, you can also wrap your hands in warm towels instead- you’ll just have to reheat them when they get cool.

Things To Travel With:

Press-On Tabs: My personal favorite are the Dashing Diva Virtual Bond tabs. They are super-strong, easy to remove and they won’t pop off while you’re changing outfits. Truly, they are the only tabs I’ve used that will stay on for multiple days if prepped properly- should you choose to keep your nails on. 

Nail Guards: These are also by Dashing Diva and they are SO underrated and I love them so much. You place them on your nail before you apply an enhancement (press-on, acrylic, gel, basically anything that’s not nail polish). Once you’re ready to take them off, you simply soak in warm water and gently pop off the enhancement with an orangewood stick. No damage to your natural nails. 

 Cuticle Pusher: This is something you should have at home and in your travel bag. Use this to gently push cuticles back before applying any product for a cleaner application surface. 

Orange Wood Sticks: These cuties are multi-purpose- you can use them to clean under your nails and also to clean up any wet polish that creeps into your sidewalls (that crease between your nail plate and your finger skin).

Nail Brush: Honestly, we should all have nail brushes in our purses. Use it to scrub your nails and clean underneath. Hygiene, baby, it’s a beautiful thing. 

 Pre-Soaked Alcohol Pads and Polish Remover Pads: I usually pick them up at Target, but you can find them at most drug stores. They are pre-soaked pads wrapped and sealed so you don’t have to deal with any spills. The alcohol pads are great dehydrating the nail plate so that you can apply product after using oils or creams, the polish remover pads are, well, for removing polish. 

High Quality Nail File 100/180: I’m not talking about cheap emery boards, get a nice high-quality file. Grab a few and switch them out once they get dull. The more coarse side is for product removal, the finer side is for shaping your natural nails.

Medium Grit buffer (180/240): This is going to help with any odd surface texture or to smooth rough edges after filing. Use it in moderation, it’s nice to have a smooth nail but don’t do it too often. 

 Cuticle Oil: Grab a cuticle oil pen and use it to hydrate and prep nails before application and after. Just use it all the time, it’s literally a miracle. 

Hand/Body Lotion: My personal favorite to use on set is Body Hero by Glossier. It has a lovely scent and just a HINT of opalescence that’s SUPER flattering on camera.  

Hand Scrub: Hand scrubs are the easiest way to fake supple skin. The grit will exfoliate all the dead and dry skin (because hello, we all have zombie hands now from washing and sanitizing all the time) and they are usually paired with some sort of humectant to infuse moisture and make the hands look extra soft and supple on camera.  

Nude & Clear Polish: Throw them in a plastic baggie before you put them in your bag (just trust me on this), grab your favorite sheer nude (something with enough color to hide imperfections and create a more uniform surface) and a simple clear polish. Some of my favorite universal nudes are: Sugar Daddy by Essie and Nourishing Nude by Orly.

Shiny Buffer (Optional): If you prefer to not wear polish at all, you can always run a shiny buffer over your clean nails to amp up the shine sans additional product.

Quick Dry Top-Coat or Spray (optional): Quick dry spray or top-coat will help your nails dry faster so that you can get dressed without smudging.

Nail Clippers (optional): Just a good idea to have on hand, although if your nails are on the shorter side you can omit this. 

Press-On Nails (optional): Whether it’s custom or drugstore, something quick and simple that can be easily popped on and off. This one is super optional, but it’s nice to have the option when you’re doing creative shoots OR if you happen to be a nail biter. 

Now go forth and model with those fabulous nails! I hope this serves as a starting off point to advocate for yourself and your nail health. Also, don’t share tools on set, and if you are a beauty pro, be sure to not share disposables between clients and that you are properly disinfecting all reusable non-porous tools. 

Sky Daisies Nail Art Tutorial

This post contains affiliate links, see my disclosure statement here.

Remember in the nineties when we all wanted to look like we were in the seventies? Everything down to polyester button ups and bell bottom jeans, not to mention the ever-present sunflowers and daisies. Seriously, I had SO many shirts and skirts with daisies on them- the more retro, the better. It seems, the nineties are most certainly back, at least if you ask the local youths.

Seventh grade 1996 Rachel LIVED for a daisy moment and of course I wasn’t smiling because a) it wasn’t cool to smile in the mid nineties and b) braces.

Admittedly, I’m a creature of habit when it comes to color and my clients can be as well and my Luminary nude collection is easily the most popular in my studio, now that spring is just around the corner I’m excited to dive into this sweet baby blue called Dream. As the name would suggest, it is, in fact quite the dream. Dream is also Cranberries song from 1993, so CLEARLY this look and this color were meant to be.

If you like to rebalance your Luminary vs a full soak off, don’t sweat it. Be sure to apply a generous layer of Clarity (clear) as your first coat, cure and then build your overlay on top of that. When it’s time to do the ol’ switcheroo just file till you get to your clear buffer layer and rebalance with the color of your choice.

Dream is the color of the month for January 2020, you can shop via my distributor My Nail Stuff using code RACHEL to save 10% on Dream as well as 10% on Erica’s ATA and Dulce Nail Sprinkles.

Products used:

Luminary Multi-Flex Gel in Dream

Luxio Color Gel in Pure

Ageha Charm On Non Wipe Gel

Gold Studs

ManaNails x Nail Partner Art Brush

Crystal Katana

Luminary Empower Top Gel

Send Nudes

This post contains affiliate links, see my disclosure statement here.

Let’s talk about nudes. No, not those kind. Get your brain out of the gutter. I’m talking about real-life human toned nude nail polishes for my people with medium to deep skintones. While truly there are no rules to color and you should one-hundred-million-kajillion percent wear whatever colors bring a smile to your face- I also understand that when it comes to deeper skin tones, finding an amazing nude shade can be a challenge. While the list below are my personal favorites that I actually own and carry in my kit, I’m so happy to see the call for better nudes is no longer going unanswered.

As you may know, I spent a good portion of my adult life as a make-up artist before I ever ventured into nails. So i’ve been on the quest to find and curate a good selection of foundation-type nudes to share with you all.

Why not the light nude shades? Frankly, there’s no shortage of light-toned nude shades with high name and brand recognition (for example: Essie’s Ballet Slippers, Bubble Bath and Samoan Sand by OPI- just to name a few). True, one does not have to match those shades to wear them- it’s nice to have the option of a true-to-you nude for everybody.

Warm Shades

These cuties will lean more towards a red or plummy undertone (think more of the NW foundations at MAC or the R family with MAKE UP FOREVER).

OPI Nail Lacquer in Chocolate Mousse ($10)

OPI Nail Lacquer in Shhh… It’s Top Secret ($10)

Essie Nail Lacquer in Cocoa Karma ($9)

Floss Gloss Nail Lacquer in Blood, Suede and Tears ($9)

Triple O Polish in Fon ($11)

CND Vinylux Weekly Nail Polish in Clay Canyon ($11)

People of Color Beauty Nail Lacquer in Mother of Earth ($12)

People of Color Beauty in Brown Sugar Babe ($12)

Cool Shades

These cuties are for my cool toned olive/yellow babes- thing C or NC shades at MAC or the Y family with MAKE UP FOR EVER.

Mented Cosmetics Nail Lacquer in Brown & Bougie ($8)

Mented Cosmetics Nail Lacquer in yes We Tan ($8)

Zoya Professional Lacquer in Kateri ($10)

Kiara Sky Professional Nail Lacquer in Treasure the Night ($8.50)

Tripe O Polish in Nok ($11)

Essie Expressie Quick-Dry Nail Polish in Cold Brew Crew ($9)

Zoya Professional Lacquer in Desiree ($10)

Marble Lightning Art Tutorial Featuring Essence by Luminary

This post contains affiliate links, see my disclosure statement here.

Manicure by Rachel Messick

Luminary is my number one desert island product in my studio. Often immitated, never duplicated. I was beyond stoked when Kelly Van Dahl, the owner and creator of Luminary, reached out to me to try the newest addition to the Colors by Van Dahl collection: a gorgeous warm dove gray called “Essence”.I’m not going tp lie it was also a bit of a Sally Field “you like me, you really like me” moment, because, well, I’m an artist and a woman and imposter syndrome is REAL. The TL;DR of the matter is, it’s nice when a brand you love, loves you back.

Truthfully, don’t often reach for the non nude/pink members of the Luminary family, but, Essence might change my mind, she’s really cute. As far as technique, texture and viscosity- Essence hits all the marks of her brand-mates: strong but with flex, hard but not rigid or brittle. In my video below you can watch me do a basic Luminary overlay, however if you want proper education you’ll want to check out Luminary Educator Candice Green’s certification courses (she certified me and is also a personal friend, so I can vouch for her) if you’re wanting to give it a go on your own, check out the Luminary Nail Systems Youtube channel for tips and tricks.

Let’s get into some ART. For this look I’ll be using Luminary Essence (duh), Kokoist Color Gel in E-206S Black Martini, Ageha Sharp Liner in White and Akzentz Gel Play in Cosmic Silver. You’ll also want to grab your Luminary Commit Primer and Empower Top Coat. For tools, this look keeps it super simple- the only brushes you’ll need are the Kokoist Round Brush and the Nail Thoughts x Kokoist Detailer.

If you’re looking to grab some Luminary for your salon or studio, you can shop my distributor My Nail Stuff by clicking this link and using code RACHEL at checkout. You’ll save 10% of the Luminary color of the month, Erica’s ATA and Dulce Nail Sprinkles.

Taking a (Gel) Break

Taking a gel break is a pretty common occurrence- but not for the reasons that most people would attribute. While there are many reasons you may choose to take a “gel break.” This year alone has forced a lot of us to do so. Do I think it’s the “death of the manicure?” Absolutely not. Let’s start with the elephant firmly planted firmly in the middle of the room: your nails don’t breathe and don’t require a break. Nails get all of their oxygen from your blood stream. Assuming you are using high quality and regulated nail products and are not currently experiencing an allergic reaction- you’re good as gold to continue to glam those phalanges to your hearts content. 

 Some of the reasons you may decide to take a gel break: 

 Salons are closed: This one hit A LOT of us this year. None of us thought a mandated salon closure would ever happen, let alone happen on and off all year. Many of us got stuck glued to YouTube trying to figure out how to take off our nails. 

 You’re unable to keep a maintenance schedule: Maybe you’re going backpacking through Europe for months. Maybe funds are tight, and nails aren’t an expense you can justify. Maybe you just had a baby and the idea of leaving your kid alone for a couple hours is stressing you TF out. Your reasons are your own, and that’s okay- we’ll be glad to see you when you’re ready to come back. 

Your nail plate is seriously damaged: I’m not talking about a few scratches here and there, I’m talking filed into oblivion or you literally slammed your nails into a car door. Maybe you’re on a new medication that’s throwing your hormones out of whack or seriously affecting prosuct adhesion. Depending on the type of damage, taking a break may be a requirement rather than a choice.

You had an allergic reaction: If your nails are itchy, red, blistered, peeling and/or tender. Go see a doctor ASAP. While it’s not our place as beauty professionals to diagnose, if something doesn’t feel right- it likely isn’t and you should get it checked out by a doctor. You will likely need to take a break and figure out exactly what ingredients are causing a reaction. I can’t stress this enough, you do NOT want to lollygag when it comes to allergic reactions- if you’re a manicurist contact allergies can end your career and if you’re a client you could eventually find yourself allergic to many ingredients if you let allergic reactions go uninvestigated and untreated.  

 Personally, I decided to take a gel break for the month of December. I had a full schedule (also lol because we ended up getting shut down AGAIN in California) and just didn’t want to have to baby my nails or deal with gel maintenance on myself. When I am off duty  I want to be OFF DUTY- not sitting at my nail desk after hours fixing a nail or rebalancing an overlay on myself. God bless my nail friends that can go 6 weeks between manicures, but, I’m a solid 2-weeker, maybe 3 weeks MAX and that’s pushing it. As a side note, I also do not recommend filing off your gel over your kitchen trashcan after a few glasses of wine at like 9pm on a Sunday. Seriously, there’s a reason I don’t do my gels at home- I’m way too impatient. Anyhow, I DIGRESS….

So you’ve decided it’s time for a gel break- what now? 

Gentle Product Removal: If you are unable to see your manicurist for a full removal. Plan on spending some time (it can take hours) to gently remove your gel the right way. You’ll want to file the surface of the gel with a gritty file, try to get through as much color as possible until you see the base coat. Once you get to the base coat, saturate a cotton ball in acetone and wrap it firmly in foil (or plastic removal clippies) and just wait. Don’t even check your nails before the 10 minute mark. Check your nails, see what product is ready to let go (don’t force it) and gently push the gel downwards with a orangewood stick or cuticle pusher. You can file a little more down and then wrap it again and soak again. Repeat until the product had released. 

Cut it down: Unless you are one of those freaks of nature who can grow out their natural nails without any problem or breakage- you’re going to need to take them shorter. Remember, you can always shorten length but you can’t add length if you cut too short. Trim your nails with clippers and they using a medium/fine grit file (180 or 240) working from the outside in a single direction (don’t saw your natural nails) gently shape your nails. 

 Push back your cuticles: Pushing back cuticles a few times a week (with a gentle cuticle pusher) will help keep excess cuticle growth at bay. Since most of us don’t want to sit with our hands in cereal bowls filled with warm soapy water, I recommend pushing them back after you get out of the bath or a shower. Easy Peasy. 

Cuticle oil is your new religion: Repeat after me, in cuticle oil we trust. Twice a day, but in reality, you can’t do it too much. If you’re having trouble sticking to a schedule- apply it alongside your skincare routine. Personally, I just have it in various common areas around my house, in my purse and in my car. I’ve been known to apply cuticle oil at stoplights, no judgement. Amen. 

Avoid excessive treatments: Nail strengtheners are an interesting product, but truthfully very few people actually need them and they tend to do more harm than good and can actually cause your nails to be more brittle over time. Truthfully, eating nutritious foods, drinking water and using cuticle oil is the perfect recipe for healthy nails. If you want more I recommend the OPI Gel Break System- it’s pretty gentle and looks natural. Personally, I just opt for regular-schmegular nail polish when I’m taking a break- it kinda brings back that spark-of-joy I felt when I was a teenager and discovered glitter polish

Whether your gel break was intentional or unintentional- I’ll be on the sidelines cheering you on and when you’re ready to get back into the salon, don’t worry- we’re not going anywhere. #longlivethemani

Holiday Nails You Won't Hate

It’s Holiday season ya’ll! While this year manages to somehow feel like the longest and shortest year ever (it reminds me of that line at the beginning of Annie Hall: “the food at this place is really terrible… and such small portions.”)While the big get-togethers aren’t (read: shouldn’t be) happening, we still want to look cute hanging with our quarantine pod or in the family photos. Here are some tips to get the most out of your holiday nail looks!

Schedule Your Appointments in Advance:

Not to be dramatic, but if you’re reading this it’s already too late, so consider this advice for next year. The holidays are our peak season and everybody wants those choice appointments that have you in right before the holidays. Book in advance, and keep your appointments.

A glitter ombré is a holiday classic and a great way to add some subtle sparkle. The base color pictured here is Hope by Luminary Nail Systems, manicure by me (Rachel Messick)

Stay Mindful:

Cooking feasts and wrapping presents can definitely put your nails in less than ideal nail care situations, but public nail enemy number one is picking stickers and price tags off of things. Do your nails a favor, just use a sharpie to mark out the price or make somebody else pick the stickers off.  Your nails will thank you.

Snowflakes are a great way to give a nod to the season that will take you through all the winter holidays. Especially love these nordic inspired cuties. The base color is Peace by Luminary Nail Systems. Manicure by me (Rachel Messick).

Subtle Seasonal Nods

Some clients LOVE super seasonal nail art (candy canes, christmas trees, etc…) but most of my clients feel a little pang of anxiety at the though of sporting super seasonal nail art for weeks after the holidays. There’s no wrong answer here as long as you love your nails, but if you opt for choices like gold/silver glitter or a classic red- you really can’t go wrong.

A classic french with a seaonal twist- you can truly never go wrong with a classic metallic moment. Base is Balance by Luminary Nail Systems. Manicure by me (Rachel Messick)

Negative space is your friend:

This one goes hand-in-hand with scheduling. If your mani usually lasts for three weeks and you find yourself in need of cute nails on week 2.5, utilize designs that have a sheer/semi-sheer nude at the base (near your cuticle) so when your nails grow out, it’s less noticeable. 

A Velvet Goldmine

Not to get all Miranda Priestly on here, but velvet for fall isn’t exactly revolutionary- but my goodness it truly NEVER gets old. While I was researching A/W 2020 runway trends, I was gob smacked by so many lush, decadent jewel-toned pieces and it immediately sent my creativity into overdrive. How does one translate the depth and iridescence of velvet into nail art? Enter, magnetic gel. 

Emporio Armani F/W 2020

 Magnetic gel, known as many things by many brands (Cat Eye, Dragon’s Eye, HypnoGel- just to name a few) is a suspension (or a dry powder that can be mixed into gel) of iron powder fragments that rise toward the surface of uncured gel when a magnet is hovered in close proximity.  We’ve all seen the traditional “cat eye” technique, where the fragments are moved into a line across the surface of the nail- but in my studio, we like it with maximum coverage and a dymanic and velvety texture. 

A velvet nail art look by Rachel Messick

Velvet nails are 100% a show stopper that your clients will absolutely flip over. Here are some tips to help you get started: 

Zimmerman Fall 2020

Quality

Be careful ordering magnetic gel from unverified sources (unknown brands on Amazon or Ali Express). Go for brands that can provide a Safety Date Sheet and legit ingredient list. The last thing you want is for a client to have an allergic reaction. I’ve used inexpensive magnetic gel in the past without issue, but now that I know better, I do better. 

Get That Texture Right

Be sure to wipe off the inhibition layer of your base color gel with a lint-free pad and alcohol, this will keep the magnetic gel from getting contaminated and also allow for more particle movement on the nail plate (a.k.a. you get more sparkle). 

A velvet nail art look by Rachel Messick

One By One

Because magnetic gel is made to move, you want to work one nail at a time curing as you alternate fingers/hands. 

Fixing a Slip-Up

If the gel isn’t moving how you need it to or you accidently get a dark spot- do not cure it - just add a little more magnetic gel to reinvigorate the surface and try again, once you get it just right, cure.

Off-White Fall 2020

Mix It Up

You are absolutely not bound to a black base coat, try layering over fun colors and see what you can create. Just keep in mind, magnetic gel tends to have a gray cast so it will likely darken and cool the tone of whatever your base color is (especially light colors). There are also some magnetic powders on the market (like Ageha Mag Powder) that can be mixed into sheer/jelly shades to create custom colors. 

Products used in the tutorial:

Kokoist Color Gel E-148 Blackest Black

Kokoist Round Brush

Kokoist Dragon’s Eye Gel D-06 Pink Gold

Kokoist Ultra Glossy Non-Wipe Top Coat Gel